Hi All

I have just come to Forum and really appreciate the collective knowledge there is here and thank Resa and Mowgli for all their commitment to tailoring.

I have some limited experience having starting sewing only a few years ago during covid and completed a couple of floating canvas constructed coats and trousers in wool. I am just about to move onto a linen suit using Resa's video series. I have ordered the linen from Baird McNutt as recommended by them: Milltown Plain Weave 228gsm 6.7oz/yd. I am planning to half line it with taped seams where visible. Now, the coats I have been making with to date have had canvas, horsehair, and domette. This seems definitely over kill for a summer suit. What should I do?

1. Full or Half Canvas?

2. Just a 210g Hymo Canvas like Giove with no horse hair or domette. I would guess that this…

Dear Reza,

My question is this: how do we stretch the back neck and shoulder to create the saddle (negative and positive curve) shape? I've been going over all the videos but I can't seem to find a demonstration. I am of course going to try it by going through what I've learned from your theory lessons, however, I would be extremely glad to hear anything you might have to say on the matter.

Most important of all, thank you so very much for all of this. Your work is truly invaluable, and I really hope within the next 5 years the fruits of your labour will be reflected in the industry as a whole.

All the best!

Zubair

Hello dear fellow tailors! I have a question regarding collar construction in couture/bespoke tailoring. In both the videos here as well as in the book "vintage couture tailoring" by Thomas von Nordheim, the collar for a jacket is constructed without a separate collar stand. The collar stand is formed by pad stitching and ironing. So I was wondering how to ad the canvas to a collar consisting of two pieces, the collar itself and the collar stand?

Or is the shown method only suitable for one-piece collars?

What about very upright, heavily reinforce collars for e.g. uniform-style coats? Do they traditionally have two-piece collars? And is the canvas for such a collar cut as one piece or also as two pieces?

Thank you so much, I am very happy that I have found this site and community!!

I want to make a caban jacket and line it with some icewool for additional warmth. But now I am unsure where to put the icewool, and how to fixate it? Is it

"Outer fabric/icewool/horsehair/lining" or rather

"Outer fabric/horsehair/icewool/lining"

?

Should I fixate the icewool to one of the layers somehow, with a pad stitch maybe? or should I attach it only at the seam allowances? I hope I got all the english technical terms right :-)

Thank you so much!

Hi Reza,

Today, I have received your new ruler set. It is great. I love it. Now I have a complete set of all the rulers I need; and it came in a nice bag, too. Thank you!!

At first I thought the inch stick is a bit narrow, but when I drew with a piece of chalk, the lines were exactly 1" apart. You really think everything through.

By the way I have accidentally come across a 5kg dry iron. This was not easy to find, and it was the last iron the shop had on stock.

Have a nice evening.

Best regards and keep on going with your and Mowgli's excellent work.

I’m putting together a tailors board. I think that is what this is called. I watched your video on YouTube about supplies needed and I have been upgrading my sewing shop. It’s a rather large wooden table. 33x72. Should I cover the entire table? I have the room for it but I didn’t know if I need my table to be that large? I plan on covering with industrial felt but I’m not sure how thick , and if I can’t find mole skin, what other options could I use for covering the felt?

I've been using the excellent traditional model videos along with Simplicity s8962 to make a suit jacket. I have a pattern drafted that fits me pretty well with a muslin mockup, but now I'm unsure how to go about drafting or altering pattern pieces for the lining. Are there any resources or general strategies for this?

Hello!

I’m currently trying the sleeve draft and I had to stop because I’m getting a huge sleeve with my personal pattern.

I think it’s related with alteration 15 on the traditional model fitting.

I don’t understand how we could do that alteration without having a huge impact on the width of the sleeve, if we move the point on the side panel 1 inch inwards we would be making the sleeve 1 inch smaller.

Back to my personal pattern, that point is about 2 inches outwards towards the back. Wouldn’t that be making my sleeve 2 inches bigger than the comparable sleeve in a pattern with that alteration done?

Ive created a resource detailing how to create the ISOT jackets across three budgets. Highlighting alternative supplies. - A Fit-Focused Muslin (budget) Use when the jacket is mainly for fit and pattern correction, not long-term wear. No specialty domette, beetled canvas, or premium threads. Substitutions everywhere except outer fabric. - A Wearable Muslin (Medium) - Wearable and fairly true to final garment without overspending. Keeps key structural elements (premium body canvas, edge tape, sleeve roll), substituting inside layers. - A Showcase Jacket (Premium) All original materials, no substitutions. ISOT Purple box begins to offer savings at the Medium level, with quite a big saving at the Premium level. (Bonus: For us Australians, I've included local pricing & suppliers + UK Supplier add-ons for the Premium version) Kindly, Rachael