Hi Everyone,

Currently following the Pagoda Model course and have found myself a bit stuck with the Pagoda shoulders

I've noticed that as supposed to the pattern in the video, which should be matched edge to edge, i find that in my pattern, one is curved and and one is straight. How do i proced with matching them edge to edge?

I attempted to match them on the TRUE edge but they were not aligning. I then jump to the step when you pivot the patterns from a 5mm SA point on both pattern pieces. Do i just continue to draw a smooth curve? What am i missing?

Hello everyone,

I’m currently drafting a jacket for a friend, inspired by the James Bond “Haiti” style.

I’m running into a fitting issue that I can’t seem to resolve.

The Problem

The jacket fits perfectly when he first puts it on. The chest line is really perfectly perpendicular to the floor, the balance looks spot on, and the overall hang is clean af.However, once he starts moving even slightly, the entire garment shifts backwards. It slides down from the neck — not dramatically, but enough that it no longer sits at the 7th cervical vertebra where it should. It feels as if someone is pulling the jacket downward from the lower back. There is no collar gap, really, though.The result is that the originally correct balance turns into a long back balance, and excess fabric starts pooling above the seat.See pictures below:

Hi all! I'm new to this and wondering if there is anything explaining how to create a paper template based on my measurements? Is there a formula demonstration etc? Many thanks! Dave

Hi All

I have just come to Forum and really appreciate the collective knowledge there is here and thank Resa and Mowgli for all their commitment to tailoring.

I have some limited experience having starting sewing only a few years ago during covid and completed a couple of floating canvas constructed coats and trousers in wool. I am just about to move onto a linen suit using Resa's video series. I have ordered the linen from Baird McNutt as recommended by them: Milltown Plain Weave 228gsm 6.7oz/yd. I am planning to half line it with taped seams where visible. Now, the coats I have been making with to date have had canvas, horsehair, and domette. This seems definitely over kill for a summer suit. What should I do?

1. Full or Half Canvas?

2. Just a 210g Hymo Canvas like Giove with no horse hair or domette. I would guess that this…

Dear Reza,

My question is this: how do we stretch the back neck and shoulder to create the saddle (negative and positive curve) shape? I've been going over all the videos but I can't seem to find a demonstration. I am of course going to try it by going through what I've learned from your theory lessons, however, I would be extremely glad to hear anything you might have to say on the matter.

Most important of all, thank you so very much for all of this. Your work is truly invaluable, and I really hope within the next 5 years the fruits of your labour will be reflected in the industry as a whole.

All the best!

Zubair

Hello dear fellow tailors! I have a question regarding collar construction in couture/bespoke tailoring. In both the videos here as well as in the book "vintage couture tailoring" by Thomas von Nordheim, the collar for a jacket is constructed without a separate collar stand. The collar stand is formed by pad stitching and ironing. So I was wondering how to ad the canvas to a collar consisting of two pieces, the collar itself and the collar stand?

Or is the shown method only suitable for one-piece collars?

What about very upright, heavily reinforce collars for e.g. uniform-style coats? Do they traditionally have two-piece collars? And is the canvas for such a collar cut as one piece or also as two pieces?

Thank you so much, I am very happy that I have found this site and community!!

I want to make a caban jacket and line it with some icewool for additional warmth. But now I am unsure where to put the icewool, and how to fixate it? Is it

"Outer fabric/icewool/horsehair/lining" or rather

"Outer fabric/horsehair/icewool/lining"

?

Should I fixate the icewool to one of the layers somehow, with a pad stitch maybe? or should I attach it only at the seam allowances? I hope I got all the english technical terms right :-)

Thank you so much!

Hi Reza,

Today, I have received your new ruler set. It is great. I love it. Now I have a complete set of all the rulers I need; and it came in a nice bag, too. Thank you!!

At first I thought the inch stick is a bit narrow, but when I drew with a piece of chalk, the lines were exactly 1" apart. You really think everything through.

By the way I have accidentally come across a 5kg dry iron. This was not easy to find, and it was the last iron the shop had on stock.

Have a nice evening.

Best regards and keep on going with your and Mowgli's excellent work.

I’m putting together a tailors board. I think that is what this is called. I watched your video on YouTube about supplies needed and I have been upgrading my sewing shop. It’s a rather large wooden table. 33x72. Should I cover the entire table? I have the room for it but I didn’t know if I need my table to be that large? I plan on covering with industrial felt but I’m not sure how thick , and if I can’t find mole skin, what other options could I use for covering the felt?