Question about lining
I've been using the excellent traditional model videos along with Simplicity s8962 to make a suit jacket. I have a pattern drafted that fits me pretty well with a muslin mockup, but now I'm unsure how to go about drafting or altering pattern pieces for the lining. Are there any resources or general strategies for this?
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Hello!
Not an expert here, but in the book "vintage couture tailoring" by Thomas von Nordheim, it says "Generally, there is no separate pattern for a lining in bespoke tailoring or couture".
"Lining material does not give to the same extend,..., therefore, sufficient ease has to be built into the lining..."
So you can use just the regular pattern, but add a pleat at the center back for ease. Also, subtract the front facing area.
I sometimes see patterns where the darts are shifted for the lining. I have a book where they show you how to construct a lining pattern for industry patterns, its in German, but I just saw that it is available in English now: Patternmaking for fashion, vol 1, by Guido Hofenbitzer
Hope that helps!