Questions

Hi All

I have just come to Forum and really appreciate the collective knowledge there is here and thank Resa and Mowgli for all their commitment to tailoring.

I have some limited experience having starting sewing only a few years ago during covid and completed a couple of floating canvas constructed coats and trousers in wool. I am just about to move onto a linen suit using Resa's video series. I have ordered the linen from Baird McNutt as recommended by them: Milltown Plain Weave 228gsm 6.7oz/yd. I am planning to half line it with taped seams where visible. Now, the coats I have been making with to date have had canvas, horsehair, and domette. This seems definitely over kill for a summer suit. What should I do?

1. Full or Half Canvas?

2. Just a 210g Hymo Canvas like Giove with no horse hair or domette. I would guess that this…

Dear Reza,

My question is this: how do we stretch the back neck and shoulder to create the saddle (negative and positive curve) shape? I've been going over all the videos but I can't seem to find a demonstration. I am of course going to try it by going through what I've learned from your theory lessons, however, I would be extremely glad to hear anything you might have to say on the matter.

Most important of all, thank you so very much for all of this. Your work is truly invaluable, and I really hope within the next 5 years the fruits of your labour will be reflected in the industry as a whole.

All the best!

Zubair

Hello dear fellow tailors! I have a question regarding collar construction in couture/bespoke tailoring. In both the videos here as well as in the book "vintage couture tailoring" by Thomas von Nordheim, the collar for a jacket is constructed without a separate collar stand. The collar stand is formed by pad stitching and ironing. So I was wondering how to ad the canvas to a collar consisting of two pieces, the collar itself and the collar stand?

Or is the shown method only suitable for one-piece collars?

What about very upright, heavily reinforce collars for e.g. uniform-style coats? Do they traditionally have two-piece collars? And is the canvas for such a collar cut as one piece or also as two pieces?

Thank you so much, I am very happy that I have found this site and community!!

I want to make a caban jacket and line it with some icewool for additional warmth. But now I am unsure where to put the icewool, and how to fixate it? Is it

"Outer fabric/icewool/horsehair/lining" or rather

"Outer fabric/horsehair/icewool/lining"

?

Should I fixate the icewool to one of the layers somehow, with a pad stitch maybe? or should I attach it only at the seam allowances? I hope I got all the english technical terms right :-)

Thank you so much!