Questions

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Help! Constructing Pagoda model shoulder pads

Hi Everyone,

Currently following the Pagoda Model course and have found myself a bit stuck with the Pagoda shoulders

I've noticed that as supposed to the pattern in the video, which should be matched edge to edge, i find that in my pattern, one is curved and and one is straight. How do i proced with matching them edge to edge?

I attempted to match them on the TRUE edge but they were not aligning. I then jump to the step when you pivot the patterns from a 5mm SA point on both pattern pieces. Do i just continue to draw a smooth curve? What am i missing?

77 Views

Reza

Mar 11

Hello! What you're missing is that the pattern you downloaded contains both a surface shape and a forward seam design. That is why the front curve is straight and the back curve hollow. The finished result should be a shoulder pad with a negative surface curve and a froward curved seam. If you watch the entire Lesson 27 on shoulder theory, it will all make sense. Reza International School of Tailoring

February 13, 2026

Jacket slides backwards off the neck despite correct balance

Hello everyone,

I’m currently drafting a jacket for a friend, inspired by the James Bond “Haiti” style.

I’m running into a fitting issue that I can’t seem to resolve.

The Problem

The jacket fits perfectly when he first puts it on. The chest line is really perfectly perpendicular to the floor, the balance looks spot on, and the overall hang is clean af.However, once he starts moving even slightly, the entire garment shifts backwards. It slides down from the neck — not dramatically, but enough that it no longer sits at the 7th cervical vertebra where it should. It feels as if someone is pulling the jacket downward from the lower back. There is no collar gap, really, though.The result is that the originally correct balance turns into a long back balance, and excess fabric starts pooling above the seat.See pictures below:

115 Views

Danijela Spasov

Feb 17

Hi there, I will try to help

This guy has a sway back, so here's what you can do

From chest line down to the waist, on the center back it should be shorter, I would say about 2 up to 2.5cm,cut on the waist and overlap, but don't touch the sides, from chest line down on the centre front it should be longer, about the same amount you cut on the back, from the chest up on the c.back it should be slightly longer than on normal figure, so the neck sits higher, from chest up on the front panel it should be shorter, neck sits lower. Keep the chest line horizontal,

Good luck,

January 26, 2026

Mens suit pattern drafting to paper template

Hi all! I'm new to this and wondering if there is anything explaining how to create a paper template based on my measurements? Is there a formula demonstration etc? Many thanks! Dave

198 Views

Zubair Hossain

Jan 30

I think that's going to be part of a later series of lessons

December 9, 2025

Linen Coat Canvas

Hi All

I have just come to Forum and really appreciate the collective knowledge there is here and thank Resa and Mowgli for all their commitment to tailoring.

I have some limited experience having starting sewing only a few years ago during covid and completed a couple of floating canvas constructed coats and trousers in wool. I am just about to move onto a linen suit using Resa's video series. I have ordered the linen from Baird McNutt as recommended by them: Milltown Plain Weave 228gsm 6.7oz/yd. I am planning to half line it with taped seams where visible. Now, the coats I have been making with to date have had canvas, horsehair, and domette. This seems definitely over kill for a summer suit. What should I do?