Questions

Hello Reza, hello team, and hello dear forum,

Thank you for reading my question. I am a huge fan of the International School of Tailoring. What you do is truly inspiring, you are making my life as a hobby tailor so much easier. :)

I am currently working on a 70s suede leather jacket with a suppressed waist (since I have a rather slim waist 36" and a broad chest 44-45")

I know that the center back seam should generally remain as straight as possible, since excessive roundness can create a bump. After all, the back is mostly a flat surface, only appearing concave from the side view.

But my problem is that my jacket doesn´t follow the concave shape of my back from the side view.

The side-seam suppression works brilliantly, but my back suppression doesn´t. The centre back just hangs straight down, while my side seams follow my rather slim waist.

So how do I get my jacket to follow my hollow back without putting more roundness in the back seam? Taking it from the sides just exaggerates the problem.

Below is a series of pictures of my mockup. I hope you see what I mean.

Thanks in advance for all your help!

Kind regards,

Luciano from Hamburg :)