grainlines
My question concerns grainlines and how the lay of the pattern affects the hang of the garment. I am accustomed to using commercial sewing patterns and the emphasis is usually on the warp. In your striking out the pattern you emphasize the horizontal balance line or the weft. So I guess my question is the horizontal more important than the vertical? Also, when a pattern is being made, regardless if it is jacket, waistcoat, trouser or skirt what construction lines are more important?
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Hello Thurl.
The chest line is perpendicular to the vertical grain line. In theory, if your fabric is undistorted, you can use one or the other and end up with correct alignments on both axes. I emphasise the chest line as I want to instil the importance of it in the mind of the students.
Also, when working with check fabrics, horizontal lines are more important as their misalignment will show up very quickly. Vertical lines don't really inform you on small misalignments. Hence my emphasis on the horizontal chest line.
Reza
International School of Tailoring