Questions

Hello everyone,

I’m currently drafting a jacket for a friend, inspired by the James Bond “Haiti” style.

I’m running into a fitting issue that I can’t seem to resolve.

The Problem

The jacket fits perfectly when he first puts it on. The chest line is really perfectly perpendicular to the floor, the balance looks spot on, and the overall hang is clean af.However, once he starts moving even slightly, the entire garment shifts backwards. It slides down from the neck — not dramatically, but enough that it no longer sits at the 7th cervical vertebra where it should. It feels as if someone is pulling the jacket downward from the lower back. There is no collar gap, really, though.The result is that the originally correct balance turns into a long back balance, and excess fabric starts pooling above the seat.See pictures below:

The Figure:

He is quite challenging to fit:

• Stooped Figure

• Round Back

• protruding hip --(like a man with a belly even though he has none)

• Slight forward head posture (though I’m unsure where exactly one distinguishes that from a general stooped figure.

• Foward shoulders???? (I am not sure about that)

  
  

The garment always drops from the red arrow to the green arrow (see photo below):

What I Have Already Adjusted

Back panel:

• Added surplus back balance for stooped figure

• Added a yoke and darts at the armholes for the round back

• Some darts for suppression

  
  

Side/front panel:

• added fabric for his protruding hip/belly, by either tilting the side panel forward (with a straight neck) or adding fabric to the centre front (with a crooked neck) - depending on how you draw the chest line (black vs yellow)

Despite all this, the jacket still migrates backward when he moves.

Simply lengthening (or shortening) the back further does not solve the issue; it actually worsens the balance once it shifts.

My Question

What could be causing a jacket with a correct initial balance to consistently slide backward?

Is this potentially:

• an issue with the natural resting position of the garment. Is the natural resting position actually the green arrow? (which I doubt since he says it feels way better when he pulls the garment up, and we did the necklace test) > ergo, I have to shorten the back balance and just lengthen the neck (like for a protruding neck (DIA. 58 below))

• An issue of insufficient front length relative to back?

• A shoulder angle problem?

• A crookening/straightening issue?

• A shoulder slope problem?

I would greatly appreciate any insight into what I might be overlooking. At this point, I feel I’ve exhausted the usual round-back and balance corrections, and I’m clearly missing something structural.

Thank you in advance.

P. S. I found some possible alterations but I am paralyzed by the sheer possibility of what to do. Maybe one of the below is the correct one. can somebody help please haha.