Question about the side panel slant
I’m currently trying to draft a pattern to my own measurements so I can follow the YouTube course, gathering as best I can the information on the specific features of Reza’s patterns scattered throughout the videos and the forum. There’s one thing I’m still unsure about, and that’s the slant on the side panel (here it is on the traditional and pagoda model).
On Reza’s patterns, both the traditional model and the pagoda model, this slant is much more pronounced than in any other pattern-drafting methods I’m familiar with, and I’m not sure why it’s drawn that way (here's some examples of different side panel slants from tailoring books. Please ignore all other design elements, those photos come forme very different sources).
In the book Menswear Fundamentals by the Müller & Sohn school, this slant is mentioned briefly, but I find the explanation a bit unclear, and it’s treated as a pattern alteration rather than an integral part of the method (here it is).
I imagine that the lower part is pushed forwards and rounded to follow the protuberence around the iliac crest, but I feel like it’s far more exaggerated on Reza’s patterns than necessary, as if trying to create an S-shaped profile that most people don’t have (i tried to force the pose without much success).
However it still looks good in the fitting videos so i must be misundertanding something. Is this a deliberate choice to accentuate the front hips? Can anyone give me some insights to help me understand this shape? Or provide a guideline that would help me find it when drafting a jacket pattern? I guess i'm looking for a way to calculate or estimate it depanding on the shape or measurements of someone. Maybe this shape is specific to Reza's body and may vary quite a bit from person to person, but I don’t yet fully understand all the ins and outs.