OTHER MODULES
Good afternoon Raza, great job you are doing in bringing these knowledge to other people. Please how can we have access to other modules referred to during your first module?
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Inventors' Corner
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A tool for measuring scye depth as well as front and back balance.
Hi Everyone,
Let me start off by wishing everyone a happy new year!
I wanted to show a tool I use sometimes for getting the depth of a customer's arm scye but can also be used to also get some measures that can be useful in determining the front and back balance while drafting patterns. In the Photo version the tool is about 3.5 inches at it's tallest height and 5 inches at it's widest, I've made it out of a thick card but plan on moving it over to thick leather for a nicer finish as it currently looks a bit chaotic and most clients would likely shriek if they saw this.
Features of Device:
- A long elastic ribbon attached to the solid tool that wraps around the model's chest and back round to the tool again horizontally
- A string/ smaller elastic ribbon designed to wrap over…
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Reza
Jan 20, 2023
Hello Kai,
1. Measuring the bottom edge of the tape to get a "deeper" armhole is not very accurate. Tapes vary in width and one never has control over who is working with what tape width.
2. Armhole depths and shoulder angles are incredibly difficult to asses accurately by eye. These will have to be measured directly.
To measure shoulder angle:
Use a level tool app on your smartphone to measure the shoulder angle. Make sure to first put the shoulder pad on the shoulders as it affects this angle.
From your front neck point, draw a vertical line downwards and use this line as your 0 point (or 90º line) to mark the shoulder angle with a protractor.
See illustration below:
To measure armhole depth:
Place a straight ruler under the armpits and hold it parallel to the floor. Make sure the ruler is as high as it can be. The top edge of the ruler will represent the armpit at its highest point.
Next, place the shoulder pad that will be used for the jacket on the shoulders and measure from the highest point of the pad, straight down over the front scye, 5/8 (1.5cm) below the top edge of the ruler.
On your pattern, apply this measure from your front shoulder point straight downwards and that will be the base of your armhole.
Reza
International School of Tailoring
English-Polish dictionary idea.
EN:
Hi, is there anyone from Poland? For some of us, English can be a barrier to gaining tailoring experience, so why not create an English-Polish dictionary of the most difficult terms? Greetings.
PL:
Cześć, czy jest tu ktoś z Polski? Dla niektórych z nas język angielski może być barierą w zdobywaniu krawieckiego doświadczenia, więc może stworzymy słownik angielsko-polski, zawierający najtrudniejsze pojęcia? Pozdrawiam.
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Ray
Aug 26, 2023
Perfect, thank you! I was thinking of bringing some materials back to Poland from England but if it can be bought there, then that would definitely be more convenient
Simple Chalk Sharpener
I recently saw this pencil sharpener from Makers Cabinet , a stationary manufacturer based in the UK.
Their design is based on a Hand Plane tool that is commonly used by carpenters.
It inspired me to apply the same concept on a Chalk Sharpener:
I personally dislike the current designs on the market for the following reasons:
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Reza
May 01, 2023
Oliver!
Great stuff! You made a first prototype. Thank you for taking the time to do this.
The sharpener has indeed failed to sharpen the chalk perfectly.
However, before drawing any final conclusions, I would try to rectify a few things. I'm not expecting you to do it but here they are:
If you look closely at the sketch I made, the edges of the gap in which the blade resides are rounded. This is to prevent those edges to also act as blades.
The gap behind the blade is very small in the sketch. That same gap is a lot larger in the prototype. the bigger this gap, the less stable the chalk will slide over the surface of the sharpener, resulting in inconsistent pressure and angles which in turn can mess up the edges of the chalk.
I have a feeling that the original 45º angle of the blade is not good. An angle of 30º could potentially work much better.
As I'm writing all this, I'm thinking what if we replaced the blade with a rod that had sand paper wrapped around it? Is that something that could still be tried on your prototype? The sand paper would just like the blade stick out about a mm from the surface and give a super smooth edge (if the sandpaper is fine grain)
Fully agree with the blade having 2 screws for more stability.
Let me know what you think.
Reza
International School of Tailoring
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Hello Frank
The first lesson of Module 2 will be published on the 1st of August this year,
The other modules are not available yet.
Reza
International School of Tailoring