I was taught that for a nice cuff fitting, we want additional length in the back part, but that is all my mentor said to this. Im curious, what really is the effect of this? Does Anyone has a better or more deep explanation?
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Why is the hem of a dress shirt sleeve curved like this?
Why is the hem of a dress shirt sleeve curved like this?
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If you look the slit on the pattern, that is where the placket is, roughly where the hindarm seam would be on a two piece sleeve.
Therefore on the front quarter of the pattern you will have the forward part of the arm, where the forearm seam would be.
On a two piece sleeve you can clearly see how because of the rotation the forearm run is always shorter than the hindarm run (measured both from the chest line down so it is apples to apples).
That is because the elbow only bends one way, you need more fabric in the back than in the front.
On a one piece sleeve there is no way of getting the curvature of the sleeve without extra darts or wedges, so you with that curvature you get a little bit of the two piece sleeve effect.
My experience is that with a sleeve cut straight the sleeve is never quite perfect, the client usually stays in front of the mirror for a while wondering if the sleeve is too long or if he needs the extra room for movement. With a curve sleeve bottom I get a much better balanced result.
It is comparable to having the correct angle on the hem of a pant. You don’t want a huge break but you want it to cover the shoe on the back, so you angle it a little.
Hope it helps