Hello Reza and hello everyone,
I'd like to ask a question about the weight of the body canvas.
In lesson 12 on the general theory of canvassing, Reza says that to have an effect on the aesthetics of the garment, you need to use a body canvas that is heavier than the outer fabric.
However, I wonder whether the weight of a body canvas, expressed in g/m2, is comparable to the weight of the outer fabric, expressed in g/m2.
I ask this question because canvasses often have a hard time exceeding 240 to 280gm/2 (at least on the sites I know of, which I believe are recognised English sites). But the fabrics themselves are not afraid of weighing 300 to 400 g/m2. So, as I like heavy fabrics, that's what I buy.
So can I use a canvassing that's claimed to be heavy but only weighs 240g/m2 for a fabric that weighs 340g/m2?
Thank you very much!
Hello Georges!
This is a great question!
You can't directly compare weights that are expressed in numbers. The weave and yarn type can heavily affect the cloths' characteristics. Two fabrics identical in weight number can feel and behave completely different due to different yarn and weave type.
When selecting your canvas, make sure to feel the canvas and compare this with your cloth. Keep in mind that the horse hair chest piece will add to the weight/robustness of the chest area.
Bottom line, you must make a judgement based on your senses and prior experience and perhaps a little imagination. For example, put a piece of your fabric on the canvas you have in mind and see how much that canvas changes the feel of the fabric. This should give you an idea whether the canvas is doing anything at all or not.
As you progress in your journey and test these different combinations, you'll build a library of references in your mind which will allow you to make more accurate judgements according to your needs.
The general idea can be taught: The canvas must dictate the cloth for reasons I explained.
The specifics must be experienced: Which canvas works best with which cloth for which purposes and tastes is really up to you to discover.
Reza
International School of Tailoring