Hi! I'm new here and just started watching Reza's jacket construction videos. I'm planning to make a winter coat for my husband. He doesn't want something too tailored, but also not too relaxed just a bit of shape.
I'm struggling to find clear information on how to draft a winter coat pattern with a standing collar like the one in the picture. On top of that, I'm totally lost when it comes to how much ease I should add for a winter coat!
The only reference I found is in Antonio Donnanno's Técnicas de Patronaje 2, where it says the ease can go from 18 to 20 cm. But that seems like a lot, especially since my husband doesn't wear many layers.
This will be my first time making a winter coat.

Please help! 😱
Hello!
Good luck with your project.
As an Idea for the easy, usually you take measurements for a jacket over a shirt and then calculate the ease from there.
You can take the measurements over the layers that the coat is going to have under ( you’ll get slightly bigger measurements) and calculate the ease like you always do.
Hope it helps.