Hi Reza, Could you give us guide lines for positioning jacket, waist coat and trousers on a non plain fabric. I understood the importance of the chest line, but how we should tread each fabric pattern. For example if we have a chalk stripe fabric, a stipe goes in the crease line of the trousers? And what about the stripe near the lapel? And with checks?
And with stripes and checks have we still got space for changes after fitting?
I know this is a more advanced step but starting to study and maybe do some mistakes now could be a clever idea. Please let me know if you need more explanations.
Cheers Mirko
I would like to do a good video about this.
Until then, here are some general guidelines:
- Front Darts on a front panel are usually placed between 2 stripes. So, the center-line of the dart will be exactly between two stripes.
- The nape and bottom of center-back are usually positioned between two stripes, like with the dart.
- The crease line of a trouser is generally aligned with a full stripe.
- Trouser bands are cut along the full stripe, paralel to the selvedge.
- The lapel on the facing side usually has a full stripe running from the point of the lapel downwards and trails off somewhere halfway through. This of course depends on how much curve is given to the lapel shape.
If your pattern is cut well, you should be able to match the checks of the sleeves by simply matching your chest line to the checks.
The rest I will cover in a separate video.
Reza
International School of Tailoring