Hi Reza and team,
I’ve noticed that lining for each of these aspects of a garment/suit are often marketed as distinct offerings, with different weights. Can you share your thoughts on the importance (if any) on such distinctions?
For example:
Should the sleeve lining be heavier than the body lining, and the body lining heavier than the trouser lining?
Is the trouser lining usually (or necessarily) of a similar color and type to that of the body?
Why is sleeve lining always light colored and striped? For tradition or function? 🤔
With thanks,
Travis
I'm eager to see how Reza lines the jacket in the video course. I've never done it, but I've obviously seen the results. I imagine it's like inserting a slick garment into a heavier garment and attaching it here and there to keep it in place. Given that the outside garment has certain pieces that are cut on the bias or otherwise constructed to accommodate specific movement, is the lining cut with that intent in mind as well?
Hello Travis, Weights, weaves and various qualities are similar to colours. On their own, they may indicate a feeling, meaning or direction but they are never right or wrong, appropriate or inappropriate. It's the context in which they are used that defines their correct or incorrectness. This context is analogous to a painting in which each colour finds its meaning in relation to all other colours. You as an artist and a technician must identify the practical from the decorative to make your design choices. Here, the word design both relates to form, function and the harmony they must achieve.
To answer your questions directly:
1. The sleeve lining should only be heavier if it must achieve a goal that can only be done with a heavier version. It can be the withstand of heavy use, filling up of a voluminous sleeve or something else.
2. Generally speaking, traditional suits use the same lining for all the garments that are part of it. The same goes for the different components such as bands, legs, sleeves and pockets. This of course is highly dependant on the visual design and can change at the designers creative will.
3. This is not always the case. Older jackets did indeed have striped sleeve linings. From a practical point of view however, they don't make a difference. Lining by nature, regardless of its weave is slippery and is there to help with the wear of the garment and to hide its construction.
Sometimes, visual design choices become tradition and once the origin story is lost, we tend to seek for a practical reason behind it. In this case, this practical reason is not very different than the reason of having lining in general for the purposes described above.
Reza
International School of Tailoring
i second this quiestion