I’m putting together a tailors board. I think that is what this is called. I watched your video on YouTube about supplies needed and I have been upgrading my sewing shop. It’s a rather large wooden table. 33x72. Should I cover the entire table? I have the room for it but I didn’t know if I need my table to be that large? I plan on covering with industrial felt but I’m not sure how thick , and if I can’t find mole skin, what other options could I use for covering the felt?
I've been using the excellent traditional model videos along with Simplicity s8962 to make a suit jacket. I have a pattern drafted that fits me pretty well with a muslin mockup, but now I'm unsure how to go about drafting or altering pattern pieces for the lining. Are there any resources or general strategies for this?
Hello!
I’m currently trying the sleeve draft and I had to stop because I’m getting a huge sleeve with my personal pattern.
I think it’s related with alteration 15 on the traditional model fitting.
I don’t understand how we could do that alteration without having a huge impact on the width of the sleeve, if we move the point on the side panel 1 inch inwards we would be making the sleeve 1 inch smaller.
Back to my personal pattern, that point is about 2 inches outwards towards the back. Wouldn’t that be making my sleeve 2 inches bigger than the comparable sleeve in a pattern with that alteration done?
Well my friend, this looks like a near perfect pattern.
The only thing I would potentially do is increase the crown height (upper part of the top sleeve) by 1/4".
Good work David. Your sleeve looks very natural and comfortable, and above all, technically flawless!
I look forward to see more photos and the end results.
Reza
International School of Tailoring
I need some advice. I have downloaded the pattern for the traditional jacket. Has anyone used the pattern? If I remember correctly, Reza said it was his personal size.
I am making a bespoke suit for my son. His waist is a size 34. However, he has broad shoulders. I am currently on lesson 15, so I don't know what is still to come.
Can anyone give me some advice on Reza's traditional jacket size?
Thank you
Millicent Murray-Roberts
Hello Millicent,
I don't recommend using my pattern for your son, regardless of our matching sizes. Our body figures might not be similar at all. And this can really make it hard for you to fit the pattern for him.
It's probably best to use a standard block pattern and adapt it for him than to try to adapt my pattern instead.
My comment might not be very helpful, but that's my best advice for now.
Reza
International School of Tailoring
Hello!
Not an expert here, but in the book "vintage couture tailoring" by Thomas von Nordheim, it says "Generally, there is no separate pattern for a lining in bespoke tailoring or couture".
"Lining material does not give to the same extend,..., therefore, sufficient ease has to be built into the lining..."
So you can use just the regular pattern, but add a pleat at the center back for ease. Also, subtract the front facing area.
I sometimes see patterns where the darts are shifted for the lining. I have a book where they show you how to construct a lining pattern for industry patterns, its in German, but I just saw that it is available in English now: Patternmaking for fashion, vol 1, by Guido Hofenbitzer
Hope that helps!