Dear ISOT-team and members,
in a modern tailoring book I have read that for padding the collar and the canvas you should use Cotton thread,arguing that a synthetic thread like very thin Seralfil or others, might melt when pressing the canvas. I mostly used silk thread voor padding as it slides easier through the fabrics and its more "elastic" than cotton thread. Both, as natural materials, they will deteriorate over time.
Is this just a clash between traditional tailoring and modern materials developed for modern tailoring?
I will use a waxed silk thread from Güterman as I have a whole box of it in stock. But consider to buy silamide , too. What are your thoughts?
Best, Martin
Hello Martin,
Overlocking thread made of polyester is generally speaking the best thread for padding collars, lapels and sewing hems. It's strong and thin.
Coats epic Tex 018, Seralene 180 or Gütermann 180 are all excellent threads with high heat thresholds.
Of course, any iron that is too hot will burn your thread regardless of it's thickness or quality.
When padding collars and lapels, it is crucial to use a thread that is thin and strong. Otherwise, the imprints of your padding stitch will be highly visible on the show fabric after a heavy press.
I don't recommend using waxed Silamide as it is. It's better to split the thread and only use 1 ply for the purpose of thinness.
I'm not sure how easily the Gütermann waxed silk will split. But if it's possible, I'd recommend that or any of the threads that I mentioned above.
I hope that this helps.
Reza
International School of Tailoring